Korea has had a hand in so many of the things we see trending on social media: creamy kimchi fried rice, snail mucin as skincare, basically any photograph of Hudson Williams… Now we can add XERF to that list. Clips of Kim Kardashian, Sienna Miller and even Barry Keoghan being zapped with the tool have landed on the internet in recent weeks, reflecting the broad church of celebrity guinea pigs queueing up to give this new, non-invasive technology a try.
XERF (an acronym for Extended Energy Radio Frequency), which promises to deliver firmer, tighter skin and a more defined jawline without the use of needles or surgical intervention, was developed by South Korean medical laser firm Cynosure Lutronic, and finally arrived here in the UK this autumn. At South Kensington clinic Dr Dray, interest is high, according to cosmetic and aesthetic doctor Benjamin Kauffholz. “The main improvement I have noticed is firmer skin and better definition around the jawline,” he continues, adding that his clients should continue to see visible results over time, peaking around the eight-week mark.
What’s all the fuss about?
What makes XERF unique is the use of dual-frequency radiofrequency to target not only the epidermis and dermis (the outer and middle layers of the skin), but also the SMAS (Superficial Musculoaponeurotic System) layer underneath, which covers the facial nerves and bones. “It uses two frequencies to work at different depths and encourage collagen production,” Dr Kauffholz explains. Traditionally, targeting the SMAS layer requires surgical intervention – during a facelift, it will be physically lifted and manipulated. XERF’s controlled thermal energy promises to stimulate collagen contraction (for a “shrink wrap” tightening effect) immediately and in the weeks that follow – no needles or scalpels required. “In simple terms, we are using heat to help the skin become firmer over time,” Dr Kauffholz says. “The feedback from patients we have treated so far is excellent, and it will be even better, as there is gradual improvement during the eight weeks after treatment.”
Who’s it for?
According to Dr Kauffholz, it’s less about age than it is elasticity of the skin, but he says he would recommend it for “someone who is starting to notice that their skin is less firm, especially around the lower face or the eyelids, and wants a gradual improvement without necessarily doing injections”. Although he emphasises that it’s not either/or from his perspective. “From our point of view, injections and XERF are complementary,” he explains. “We specialise in all types of injections, and we can restore the volume of the face, treat wrinkles and treat the quality of the skin. But despite all the treatments we do, if the skin is losing firmness, there is still something missing. This is what interested us in XERF: [it’s] another way to work on firmness without adding volume – we wanted to give our patients this option.”
Any drawbacks?
It’s very expensive – we’re talking £2,000 and up, depending on the areas being treated. The face, or face and neck, tends to be the focus, but XERF can also be used on other areas of the body, including the upper arms, abdomen and thighs. The price point suggests the customer base will be the ultra-rich (or extremely extravagant) in which case, why not?
“You are paying for the technology,” says Dr Kauffholz. “For me, the price only makes sense if the treatment is right for the patient. The possibility of improving firmness without needles and with no downtime or pain is important, but I would never recommend it simply because it is our newest machine.”
Who should avoid it?
Any XERF treatment will be preceded by a proper consultation. “We need to check a patient’s medical history, and whether they are pregnant, have implanted medical devices, metal implants or any active skin problem,” Dr Kauffholz says. “Also, if someone has a lot of loose skin, or expects the results of a surgical facelift, we need to be honest – this may not be the right treatment for them.”
The verdict:
After removing all my jewellery (no metal allowed), I was connected to the machine with a grounding pad – a bit like a giant silver sticker – attached to my back. Gel – the same sort used for an ultrasound – was then applied to the area being treated, and the tool was pressed firmly into the skin and dragged slowly from, for example, the base of the neck up to the jawline, growing warmer and emitting blasts of radiofrequency along the way. My therapist worked her way around my face and neck section by section, each area getting multiple passes with the handheld device. While it definitely isn’t painful, it’s no massage, either. Mostly it’s just a bit of a drag – resign yourself to a couple of hours in the chair, and with no phone to scroll.
All of that being said, the results were pretty instantaneous: a subtle but noticeable lifting, that, as Dr Kauffholz said, has become more discernible in the month or so since I had the treatment. At Dr Dray clinic, they recommend a second session at the two-month mark, after which you can go a year before deciding whether you want another appointment. I love that it’s non invasive and the fact that there is zero downtime, as well as how the benefits continue to show up for a long period after treatment. Were I a high-profile actress with a looming red carpet – or simply sitting on unlimited funds – I wouldn’t hestitate to book.